Hasselback Potatoes

I’ve been on a tangent of studying “named foods.” You know: dishes like Steak Diane, Parker House Rolls, and the like. Of course, some were named after the restaurants where they were created. Others have murky origins or are even have faux origins:

Steak Diane: Named after Diana, the goddess of the hunt in Greek mythology. Basically a filet mignon with a sauce made from the pan juices and butter, shallots, brandy, and other ingredients. In earlier eras, this was usually served flambé at the table.

Beef Wellington: A filet steak cooked with a puff pastry covering, supposedly named after the Duke of Wellington. The first known recipe with this name appeared in 1966.

Origin of the Waldorf SaladWaldorf Salad: Created in the 1890s at the Waldorf Hotel in New York (now the Waldorf-Astoria), it’s a cold salad made of fresh apples, walnuts, and celery with a mayonnaise dressing. Some cooks call any cold salad primarily made of apples, and including things like coconut, maraschino cherries, or other fruits, a “Waldorf Salad.”

Lobster Thermidor: A very delicious (and expensive) dish made from lobster meat, egg yolks, flour, brandy or sherry, and put back into a lobster shell, then often covered with cheese (usually Gruyere). The dish was created in 1894 by Marie’s, a restaurant in Paris, to honor a play named Thermidor opening at a nearby theatre.

Lobster Newburg: The ancestor of Lobster Thermidor, similarly made, and which debuted in 1876 at Delmonico’s restaurant in New York. What’s the difference? Newburg is not returned to the shell to be served. Some say the sauce is lighter, being made without flour and with white wine instead of other liquors.

Omni Parker House

It's an Omni Hotel now, but still in the traditional Parker House location

Parker House Rolls: A soft, buttery roll usually in the shape of a half-moon, introduced of course at the Parker House Hotel in Boston. The hotel opened in 1855 and is also famous for inventing Boston Cream Pie. The earliest reference to the name of these rolls dates back to 1873.

Chicken Kiev is a faux Russian dish that appeared on a restaurant menu in Chicago in 1937. It might date back to the early 1900s, however. It’s a boneless chicken breast wrapped around butter and herbs and either baked or fried.

Chicken Cordon Bleu is not named after the famous cooking schools. This boneless chicken breast wrapped around cheese and thinly-sliced ham started in the mid-1950s, though it was Veal Cordon Bleu in those days. It originated in the U.S., not France.

Beef Stroganoff, lean beef strips sautéed and served in a cream sauce with onions and mushrooms, was supposedly named after a 19th century noble named Count Stroganoff. The legend says he was stationed in Siberia and found the only way he could use his frozen beef was to cut it in thin strips. One source says the recipe first appeared in the 1870s, another source says it was launched in the 1930s.

Now let’s talk about Hasselback Potatoes. Ever heard of those? Probably not. This is a clever but little-known treatment of potatoes that makes it both a soft and crispy side dish. Some recipes say to “scallop” the potato and others say to “shingle” the potato, but both of these terms are unclear in their exact nature. Basically, you take a potato and slice it thinly so that it stays together but is in a fanned shape. The ingredients are not complicated. The preparation is what makes it seem like a fancy dish. I like to use russet potatoes but Yukon Golds also work. Round potatoes might be fine once you get the cutting technique mastered.

This recipe seems to have started in the 1700s at the Hasselbacken, a restaurant in Stockholm, Sweden. It still appears on the menu there.

hasselback potatoes
Hasselback Potatoes

4 large, preferably oblong, potatoes

2 cloves garlic, chopped

4 tablespoons olive oil

2 teaspoons coarse salt, divided

1/2 teaspoon pepper

1/2 teaspoon paprika

1/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon grated parmesan cheese

1 teaspoon parsley

Scrub potatoes thoroughly, with skin on. Place each on cutting board and cut off the bottom, about a half inch deep, to make a flat bottom surface. Then make slices in top of potato, about one-fourth to one-half inch thick, cutting only through three-quarters of the depth of potato to leave it joined at the bottom. Place, flat side down, in pot of boiling water (enough to cover potatoes) with one teaspoon coarse salt. Boil for 12-20 minutes.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. In a small bowl, mix garlic, olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt, pepper, paprika, and Worcestershire sauce.

Lift potatoes with slotted spoon onto baking sheet, flat-side down. Brush each potato thoroughly on top and sides with liquid mixture. Place in oven and bake 40-45 minutes. (If using medium-sized potatoes, allow between 20-30 minutes.)

Remove from oven, sprinkle with parmesan and parsley, and serve.

About Chuck


From an interview with FriendsEat.com:

Blogger Chuck Mallory shares his passion for food in his blog Super Side Dishes. If you salivate when thinking of Four Cheese Mac with Bacon, or Fried Red Tomatoes, then you should definitely check out his mouth-watering sides. We caught up with Chuck and asked him a few questions about his passion for food and writing.

FriendsEAT: What inspired you to start a food blog?

Chuck Mallory: The number of people who were impressed by my cooking, asked for recipes, and actually suggested I start a food blog. I decided I was a better cook than I realized! The blog has received such a positive response from people, I’m very grateful.

FE: What field of food does your blog focus on and why did you decide to go this route?

CM: Side dishes. There are few blogs on this particular topic. These are almost always meat-free, vegetable-based side dishes, and thus are of interest to vegetarians too. To me, it’s easy to like the main course and dessert. A good cut of meat or fish can stand by itself, and who doesn’t like dessert? But too often we take shortcuts on side dishes. Good recipes for side dishes can change that, and you’ll increase your intake of healthier foods, too.


FE: What is a typical day in your life like?

CM: I work in a corporate job but also am a professional writer part-time. So some evenings I am cooking, blogging, and/or writing. In the past I wrote for the Kansas City Star newspaper and several magazines, including men’s fitness magazines. Typical weekends in Chicago include entertaining and/or eating out. With that lifestyle, of course I have to make time for the gym.

FE: What was your childhood kitchen like?

CM: Everyone has a story about the wonderful cinnamon-y smells or hustle and bustle in the kitchen. My mom worked and had 5 kids and it was a busy household. I remember as a young child the vast amount of canning that seemed to happen, and as a teenager, remember enjoying TV dinners (Mom worked in a TV-dinner factory for awhile). We owned a couple of restaurants part of that time, so I remember that crazy atmosphere, too.

FE: What is your kitchen like now?

CM: I’m in Chicago, so space is premium. I took out an island but have crammed my cabinet space (in an organized way) with every possible gadget. I use a large antique wardrobe as an extra cabinet. I have a KitchenAid ProLine gas range that has a special attachment to hold a wok on the grill and also has convection oven. I have a freezer-on-the-bottom refrigerator. It never made sense to me to have the freezer on the top.

FE: What type of people read your blog?

CM: People from all walks of life, from busy Midwestern housewives to young moms who want to sneak more vegetables into their kids’ diets, to gourmet types. I get a lot of emails from vegetarians and vegans, too, who are looking for new and creative ways to cook.

FE: What is your favorite food and why?

CM: Asparagus. It’s healthy, delicious, and very versatile. Plus no other vegetable tastes quite like it.

Note to Companies/Media: I don’t accept products to consider covering in the blog. Everything I write about, even if I talk about name brands, is something that was solely chosen by me to feature. Nor do I consider cookbooks for reviewing or have any paid links. The other food blogs I mention on my site was chosen by me because I follow them. Any questions, email me at chuckmall at yahoo

Cooking Techniques from Grandma

We should all have a grandma who taught us a bunch of stuff about cooking. In times gone by, that was a given. But today folks have to rely on any elderly cook they can find. There is no substitute for years of experience at the stove.

Thus here is an array of valuable tidbits that you are not likely to know unless you are already a very experienced cook with a variety of types of food. I’ve modernized a few of them (my grandmother never used a microwave or pastry brush, for instance) but they are still basic, solid, home-cooking tips.

  • Always make mashed potatoes with a ricer or mashing by hand. Machines, even an electric mixer, can deteriorate the starch in potatoes enough that they won’t come out fluffy.
  • Grandma cooking techniques

    Grandma did actually get to sit down to the table and enjoy a meal once in awhile!

  • Rest plain cooked rice in the pan for 15-30 min. after it has finished steaming. Leave the lid ajar. This will help the grains stay intact and help the grains firm up to a good texture.
  • Salad secret: if making a dressed salad with green leafy vegetables and are using a vinaigrette or other acidic-based dressing (such as lemon or fresh tomato), dress the salad right before serving. Acidic foods make green vegetables look dull and feel limp quickly.
  • If serving boiled vegetables and you don’t want the wrinkly look or shrinking some boiled vegetables (such as corn, carrots, green beans or asparagus) can have, drain vegetables after boiling and immediately use a pastry brush to coat them with oil or butter. This helps them trap moisture inside.
  • When juicing citrus fruit (by hand), bring it to room temperature and then roll it on the counter (to get the maximum amount of juice) before you cut it.
  • Enhance a spice’s flavor by heating it briefly in a dry stovetop pan on medium heat about 1-2 minutes, or until it has a “nutty” or cooked smell. Remove from heat immediately.
  • To check the freshness of eggs without breaking them, place them in a bowl of water. Fresh eggs will lie flat in the water. Old ones will float and lift an end toward the surface.
  • You can’t make homemade whipped cream from anything other than whipping cream or light whipping cream because other products (such as milk, light cream, or half-and-half) do not have enough fat. Use a chilled bowl and chilled beaters for the greatest chance of success.
  • To make a homemade pie crust more flaky, substitute a third of all-purpose flour in the recipe with cake flour.
  • Of course, a cast-iron skillet should not be washed with soap and water. But how to clean off those cooked-on pieces of grit? Just put coarse salt in the pan. Use a soft dry cloth or paper towels to scrub the grit away.

And the following one is mine, because Grandma would never have used liquor in a recipe:

When frying vegetables in a batter, you can get a crisper, lighter crust by replacing about a third of the flour with corn meal. It’s also helpful to replace up to one-fourth of the batter liquid with vodka. Vodka boils off more quickly and blocks some of the gluten formation. The alcohol should cook out.